Final Tips & Techniques For Putting it All Together:

        You will need the tools mentioned at the beginning, you do not NEED three Micrometers, a good quality Vernier Caliper and a Dial gauge with magnetic stands are must haves. You use the internal measurement telescopic gauges by measuring them externally with the Vernier calipers or Micrometers. You don't want to know how much internal Micrometers cost.

- First just follow the procedures in the Haynes or Workshop manual
- Have everything laid out on a clean surface in a methodical manner with associated components grouped together
- Always use new con-rod and main bearing cap bolts
- If you need any other small fixings use `S` grade ones, there will be a little `s` stamped on the top of the bolt. Do NOT use any bolts on the car which are unmarked. They are probably just old cooking pots melted down. Even ones with other markings such a `R` or `L` may have too little or too much tensile strength and should be avoided as their correct torque levels are different.

- Washers should never be used on high tension fasteners unless they are purpose made ones specified by the manufacturer, most washers will compress as it will be softer than the bolt, this can ruin the torque setting which is absolutely essential for it to resist failure or unscrewing itself. Very occasionally on things like driveshafts washers are used. These are specially made hardened ones and only these special items should be used.
Some manuals suggest the use of locking tabs on camshaft bolts and others to keep bolts from coming undone. I would not use these for the reason above, if you torque them correctly they will not loosen. Use thread locking compound if you must be sure.

- When inserting the cylinder head studs into the block they only require to be screwed in tightly by hand. Do not screw them in really really tight with mole grips or the like.

- Make sure all threads are clean and very lightly oiled, do not squirt oil down threaded holes before screwing bolts into them as the hydraulic pressure of the compressed oil will give false torque readings and may render the bolt impossible to fully tighten.

- For ultra critical bolts: Camshaft sprocket, Main Bearing caps, Con-Rods. Special thread lubricant can be used. This is formulated especially to give as accurate a torque setting as is possible. If purchasing anything by ARP they supply a small sachet of it for you with the bolts.

Do not bother with this for any other fittings

- Remember there is no point having the block cleaned if you put dirty bits into it!
Make sure the threads of fasteners are clean too. If all the little bolts are very dirty just buy new ones. Also clean your tools you will be using to assemble the engine. Gritty old socket sets mean back to the chem dip again if you use the dirty things on that nice shiny block!

When putting on the carbs etc. cover the intakes too.

- Cling film is wonderful stuff for keeping clean things free of dust and other garbage.
It seems to be unaffected by oil too! Wrap things up in it if you intend to delay the assembly.

- Always use new timing chain & tensioner, new bearings, new oil seals, new pistons and new piston rings.

        Unlike steel items aluminium pistons have a limited lifespan (even if not worn beyond tolerance) as aluminium is weakened by cyclic stress badly. Lower mileage used pistons in very good condition may well still be OK if you use new rings.

        The very strong aerospace grades of aluminium are particularly badly effected and can be reduced to HALF their initial strength after about 10 million stress cycles. This is why dragsters with lightweight aluminium Con-Rods replace them after every few power runs.

- Before chem dipping a block get a very fine file and gently round off any sharp machined edges. Do not take off lots of metal just de-burr it. Don't go near the bearing housings though. This will help prevent minute bits breaking off during assembly and running. It will also help you avoid cutting yourself!

- When handling the new crank tape on the old bearings to the shiny journals (clean them up though first!). This will protect the bearing surfaces, it is a law of nature that you WILL dent or scratch the journals during assembly.

- Don't over tighten the sump bolts as the ones that go into the alloy oil seal housing strip easily.

- If you are having a problem don't go the standard (and usually very effective) route of screaming with rage and heaving that little miscellaneous B****R into place whether it likes it or not. Sit back and have a cup of tea, the answer will come to you!

- When buying fasteners (except con rod, crank, flywheel & camshaft bolts) buy them from a fastener company, they are MUCH cheaper and usually better than ones from Classic car parts suppliers. Get zinc plated ones, the exception to this rule is than for really high strength bolts get plain un-plated ones. The galvanising very slightly reduces their strength.

- Having put the crankshaft in (without the con rods attached) rotate it, if you detect any stiff spots something is wrong and you MUST rectify this before proceeding. The most likely cause is that you have put one or more of the main bearing caps in the wrong place

They are numbered with little dots but I would make a careful note of which one goes where before you disassemble them in the beginning. The factory markings may be wrong!

        If depressingly this is not the solution then you may need professional assistance. You can ascertain if the crank is bent with your dial gauge and magnetic stand, remove the central bearing cap and place the dial gauge feeler onto the crank bearing surface (a little to the side or the oil feed hole will foul it). Rotate the crank and watch the dial gauge, any noticeable movement and you have a bent crank. Thank god that a pro engine repair man can fix this permanently providing the crank does not resemble a banana!

This exercise can be carried out on the other two main journals making sure that the other two bearing caps are in place at the time.

- You MUST use special camshaft assembly lube on the cam lobes or the initial run will totally screw them up.

- I use it also in all the bearings in the engine to protect on initial start up. Do NOT use it on the pistons or bores as it may well stop the piston rings seating correctly.

Checking The Pulley Timing Marks:

1. Note: Always turn the Crankshaft clockwise when facing the Pulley nut.
   You should use the dial gauge, timing disc, and vernier scale on the special camshaft sprocket (if you've bought one that is!). The Timing disc is bolted to the crankshaft end, the dial gauge is used first to check the factory mark on the pulley for engine TDC. Top Dead Centre.
2. This just means that number 1 piston (the one at the front) is at the very top of its travel.
   You should check this. I suggest you put that big socket onto the pulley nut and adjust the crank with a big ratchet or bar. This will be more accurate than trying to turn the crank by hand.
3. Turn the crank so that the No.1 piston (I shall henceforth refer to No.1 Piston just as the Piston) is roughly just a little before the top of its travel.
4. Put the dial gauge feeler onto the piston crown
5. Turn the crank JUST enough so that the dial gauge stops moving when the crank is still turning.
6. Make a small mark on the Pulley
7. Turn the crank JUST enough so that the dial gauge just starts moving again
8. Make another small mark on the Pulley
9. The point exactly in between these two marks is TDC. If this is different from the factory mark then make a new bigger one in the correct place.
10. I suggest you do the initial operation twice to be sure, it gets confusing if there end up being half a dozen timing marks! Also it will make the camshaft timing impossible.

Timing The Camshaft:

Now that TDC has been checked we can degree the cam. This optimises power and ensures maximum efficiency.

You will need the set up as per the previous operation.

The camshaft should be supplied with data for timing, this will tell you when maximum valve lift takes place. You may need some sort of short dummy push rod as the Dial Gauge feeler needs to rest on the cam follower.

The cam lobe you take the readings from may vary so check with the instructions first.

1. Make sure the cam follower you use and its little bore is dry and free of oil during this operation, the oil can make it `stick` at the top of its travel and give false readings.
   Perhaps have a friend gently apply finger pressure to the follower so it follows the profile of the camshaft lobe accurately.
2. Put the Crankshaft degree timing disc on the crankshaft.
3. Put the dial gauge onto the appropriate cam lobe follower
4. Turn the crankshaft to the exact degree of rotation supposed to supply maximum valve lift to that particular valve. While doing this look at the Dial Gauge, it should peak at exactly the point the crank reaches the indicated degree of rotation.
5. If it does not then use the vernier adjustment on the camshaft sprocket to turn the cam (while the crank is fixed at the same point) to alter the valve lift to its maximum as indicated by the Dial Gauge.
6. Tighten it all up, congratulations the cam is correctly degreed!
   

Checking Rocker Geometry:

This is a must and a definite must do after a compression ratio change.
This operation should be done with the engine complete, rocker arm clearances set and engine in final specification.

1. Apply a little engineers blue marker dye to the top of the valve stems.
2. Rotate the engine (clockwise remember!) one full rotation
3. Remove the rockers
4. Look at the marks made by the dye marker on the valve tip.
5. If there has been rocker>valve contact in the middle of the tip you have a correctly adjusted engine
6. If the contact is towards the carburettor side of the engine then you must shorten rocker pedestals and/or push rods too. Wear on this side will cause premature valve guide failure
7. If the wear is towards the other side of the engine you should fit pedestal spacers and/or longer push rods. On this side if the marks are only just off centre then it should be OK to leave alone.