Have you found this site useful? ...Help keep it on-line

Click a car to go to it's home page

Whitey Gets it's 6 cylinder!

   Whitey - A 1975 Spitfire 6 Cylinder and Fuel Injected Conversion

   Whitey's Home Page    The 6 cylinder     Fuel injection ECU    Custom Manifold  
The ECU location   96 Amp Alternator   A Remote oil filter   Aluminum Radiator 
 Engine Position comparison     Frame mods    Firewall mods     An engine analysis  


ODD paint photo problems!    compounding, buffing polishing    
 new tranny position   Shortening the shifter   a new tranny tunnel   the new clutch line 
  molded carpet mods    Outdoors in the Sun!   Engine Test stand     F.I. Home Page
  GT6 brakes    Self adjusting rear brakes     full engine out in the sun    A Sneak Peek!
  CV axles and custom a-arms   The other half of the story


    Not many pics were taken during the frame modifications. The engine and tranny did go in and out of the vehicle at least three times to verify positions of the mods needed.  The areas cut out, were filled back in with 1/8" thick stock. Surprisingly The stock frame metal is only around 0.042" thick! That's roughly 19 gauge.  Even though it's no longer a 'box' in the modified areas, I don't think the strength of the frame is compromised in any way shape or form.  

   Cutting open this frame, also let me know that Whitey's frame is still in fantastic shape. Not a sign of rust anywhere.   Oh... and just as a point of interest.... the inside of your frame is painted black (weld through primer?). Apparently the frame rail sub components are painted BEFORE the parts of the rails are assembled to make the rails. A dissection of the welds (of the parts cut out) show the paint between the sheets where they are pinch welded to build the box of the rail.  

     I didn't want to have to pull the tub off. Doing so would have probably made the whole job easier. But doing so would have required re-installing the whole tub multiple times to check clearances. So I left it in place through all this. 

    Moving the cross box (spans the frame rails just behind and below the rear tranny flange) was perhaps the biggest hassle. It was REALLY a pain trying to cut it out. So after countless angle grinder cut-off disks being trashed, a brand new Sawsall was purchased.  What a COOOLLL tool!  It made VERY simple work of ALL the frame mods. Inst4ead of just cutting on side of the frame box at a time, I was able to quite literally carve an 'orange wedge' out of the frame. (top side, and inner frame wall cut at one time)

    The front 'curves' clear the bell housing. The rear tranny mount area was reinforced on the inside walls with a slab of 1/8" x 2" stock. This formed the vertical wall that supports the flat area the tranny mount plate fastens to.  AS usual, everything was kind of 'cut-to-fit'. A lot of test fitting, trimming and finally welding it in, then a lot of grinding to 'pretty it up'.

 A few holes need to be drilled, and the center tunnel cross brace still needs 
to welded back in (it's just still wedged in in the photo above...top center of pic)

...updates post 4/1/2006... 

You can see the new box section on the outer 
side of the rail to the left in the above photo.
(raw unpainted metal at left)

    Ok...back to updating these pages. 

    After test fitting the engine and tranny again, I realized the exhaust system was not going to clear the frame rail. So I figured I'd simply go to a muffler shop and have them rebend the downpipe a bit. After a whole LOT of study...I realized that would be a no go as well as hte pipe would have to stcik out too far below the frame rail. 

    My only other option...modify the frame rail...again!  Having already eaten up a bit of space in the right side foot well to clear the starter with the new firewall, I figured out a simple fix. I cut out the now boxed in bottom front left corner of the right side floor pan, which gave me space to the right, of the right side frame rail. I simply cut out a chunk of 14 gauge steel, bent it into a 'C' 3" x3.5" x 3" (around the 'C' and) about 14" long. I then split the 'C' at the top and bottom and slightly folded it along it's length. This 'C' became the new right side wall of the frame rail. I then simply cut out the original left side of the right hand frame rail, to clear the pipe. So in simpler terms, I used the original right hand side of the right frame rail as the new inner (left side) of the frame rail and added a new outer right side to the rail.


    Since the 14 gauge steel is heavier than the original frame metal, I do honestly believe the frame is actually stronger than before. Where the original rails were only about 3" wide, the rail mods here made the rail about 4" wide, even after the exhaust clearance cut out. Also notice in the last shot, the little 'divit' in the lft frame rail on the top inner edge. This was doen before the exhaust clearance mods to clear the edge of the bell housing. More so for bolt access so I can remove the tranny like normal Spits, from inside the car.
      This shot is just for perspective. In the right side foot well you can see the new firewall section and how the floor was modifed to handle the starter starter overlapping the floor. This section was added to give the new fiberglass tunnel a place to bolt down to.





return to Teglerizer's home Page©1987-2010
All material copyright© Teglerizer 1996-2008

last edited 

Hit Counter
hits since last reset

Paul's Triumph Home Page Paul's MGB Home Page Paul's MG Midget Home Page


Hit Counter